Cedar vs. Pine Fence in Wichita: Cost, Lifespan, and Which Wood Is Right for Your Family

If you are pricing a wood privacy fence in Wichita, the first real decision is the wood itself. Midwest Fence builds wood fences in both cedar and pressure-treated pine, and the cedar vs. pine fence question almost always comes down to the same trade: pine costs a few dollars less per foot today, while cedar gives you more years, fewer gaps, and a straighter fence later. Which side of that trade wins depends less on the wood than on your household — how long you plan to stay, who is running around the backyard, and how many Saturdays you want to spend with a stain sprayer.

This guide is written for the homeowners we meet most often: families in Andover, Derby, Goddard, Maize, Bel Aire, and neighborhoods across Wichita who need a fence for the kids and the dog, are working to a real budget, and want a straight answer about which wood is worth it. Every number below is a Wichita-market planning range, not a quote.

The short answer: choose cedar if you expect to stay in the house eight years or more, want a privacy fence that stays tight and straight, and like the look of natural wood. Choose pressure-treated pine if upfront cost decides it, you are fencing a long run, you may sell within about five years, or you have a big dog that is hard on wood. Either one lasts much longer with posts set deep in concrete and a fresh coat of stain every two to three years.

Cedar vs. Pine Fence at a Glance

Here is a side-by-side cedar vs. pine fence comparison on the questions Wichita homeowners ask us most. The rest of this guide explains each line.

The cost and lifespan figures match our 2026 fence cost guide and our fence lifespan guide. The hardness and shrinkage comparisons come from the USDA Wood Handbook figures for western red cedar and loblolly pine, one of the southern yellow pines widely used for pressure-treated lumber.

What Each Wood Costs in Wichita

Installed, a cedar privacy fence runs roughly $30–$50 per linear foot in the Wichita market, and pressure-treated pine roughly $25–$40. Board style, height, gates, slope, and access all move the number inside those ranges.

Per-foot prices are hard to picture, so here is what they mean for a real backyard:

• 150 feet of fence (a common subdivision backyard): pine about $3,750–$6,000, cedar about $4,500–$7,500. Cedar adds roughly $750–$1,500.
• 200 feet of fence (a larger or corner lot): pine about $5,000–$8,000, cedar about $6,000–$10,000. Cedar adds roughly $1,000–$2,000.
• Gates are priced separately — generally $200–$800 or more depending on width and hardware.

The upfront gap is only half the story. Spread the price over the years each fence lasts and the math flips. Using the midpoints above, a stained 150-foot pine fence costs about $4,900 for 10–15 years of use, or roughly $390 a year. A stained 150-foot cedar fence costs about $6,000 for 20–25 years, or roughly $270 a year. Staining is close to a wash, because both woods need it on the same two-to-three-year schedule.

This is where the cedar vs. pine fence decision really turns, because cedar only pays off if you are still in the house to collect it. If you are in a starter home and expect to move in four or five years, pine gives you a private backyard for less money, and a well-kept pine fence still shows well when you sell. If this is the house you plan to raise your kids in, cedar is usually the cheaper fence in the long run. Our guide to whether a fence increases home value covers what buyers notice.

Every Midwest Fence installation includes free removal and haul-away of your old fence, so tearing out a tired fence does not add a line to the quote for either wood. If spreading the cost helps, financing with monthly payment options is available.

How Long Each Wood Lasts in Kansas Weather

Kansas is hard on wood. Summer afternoons over 100°F bake the boards, south winds work every fastener loose, sprinklers soak the bottom of the fence all season, and winter freeze-thaw cycles pull at posts set in Sedgwick County clay. Here is what to expect from each wood in those conditions:

• Cedar: about 20–25 years when it is stained every two to three years, and about 12–15 years if it is left to weather gray. Cedar’s rot and insect resistance comes from natural extractives in the heartwood, and the USDA Forest Products Laboratory’s Wood Handbook rates cedar heartwood among the decay-resistant woods. The pale sapwood near the bark does not share that resistance, which is why board grade matters.
• Pressure-treated pine: about 10–15 years with regular stain, and 7–10 years without it. The preservative protects the wood from rot and insects, but it offers almost no protection from the sun, which dries, cracks, and warps unprotected boards. That is why an unstained pine fence ages faster.

On both woods, the first parts to fail are usually the posts and the bottom few inches of the pickets, where soil, mulch, sprinkler spray, and snow keep the wood wet. The post matters as much as the picket. We set privacy-fence posts about 30 to 36 inches deep in concrete — below the Sedgwick County frost line and deep enough for the wind load on a tall solid fence. Whatever wood you choose for the pickets, the posts in the ground should be rated for ground contact. Treated lumber carries an end tag, and the American Wood Protection Association lists fence posts under Use Category 4A (ground contact) or higher, while fence pickets fall under the above-ground Use Category 3B.

For every material side by side, see how long a fence lasts in Kansas, and for storm season, our wind-resistant fence guide.

Shrinking, Warping, and Gaps: Where Cedar Earns Its Price

This is the difference most homeowners do not hear about until a year after the fence goes in. Pressure-treated pine is soaked with preservative under pressure, and much of it is still wet when it is delivered. As it dries in the Kansas sun, it shrinks — and pine shrinks a lot. The USDA Wood Handbook puts loblolly pine at about 12.3% volumetric shrinkage from green to oven-dry, against about 6.8% for western red cedar. In plain terms, pine moves nearly twice as much.

On a fence, that movement shows up as:

• Gaps between pickets. Boards installed tight side by side can open visible gaps as they dry — enough for the dog to watch the neighbor’s cat, and enough to take the edge off the privacy you paid for.
• Cupping and twisting. Boards curl at the edges, and some twist away from the rails.
• Checks and splits. Small cracks open along the grain as the wood dries, which is also where splinters come from.
• Loose fasteners. Wood that moves works nails and screws loose over a few seasons of heat and cold.

Cedar is far more stable. It goes up flatter, stays flatter, and holds a clean line along the top of the fence, which is a big part of why a cedar fence still looks sharp at year ten.

If pine is the right budget for you, you can design around the shrinkage:

• Choose board-on-board or shadowbox. Overlapping pickets keep the fence private even after every board shrinks. Shadowbox also looks finished from both sides, which is how Derby lets a street-facing wood fence meet its finished-side rule.
• Ask whether the lumber is kiln-dried after treatment (KDAT). KDAT boards are dried before they reach your yard, so they move less after install. It costs more and is not always stocked, so ask.
• Let it dry before you stain — more on that below.

Kids, Dogs, and Everyday Wear

A backyard fence for a young family takes more abuse than a fence along a quiet property line. A few honest differences:

• Dogs that scratch, chew, or jump on the fence. Cedar is a soft wood. The Wood Handbook puts western red cedar at about 350 pounds-force on the standard side-hardness test, against about 690 for loblolly pine, so pine is roughly twice as hard. Claws at the gate, a dog that chews the bottom of a picket, the mower deck, a hailstorm, or a soccer ball hitting the same spot all mark cedar sooner. If you have a big, busy dog, pine holds up to that wear better. Our best fence for dogs guide covers heights for jumpers and dig guards for diggers.
• Kids and splinters. Either wood can splinter. Pine is more prone to surface checks as it dries, so look over the boards kids touch most — around the gate and the play set — and sand any rough spots before you stain.
• Treated wood around kids and pets. Lumber treated with the old arsenic-based CCA preservative has not been made for residential use since the end of 2003, under an agreement between manufacturers and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Today’s residential treated lumber uses mostly copper-based preservatives. Common sense still applies: discourage the dog from chewing any fence, wash hands after handling fresh-cut treated wood, and never burn treated scraps — the EPA specifically warns against burning preservative-treated wood at home.
• Gates take the most punishment. A gate the kids swing on all summer is the first thing to sag. Our cedar and pine gates are built on steel frames for strength, in board-on-board, dog-ear, and flat-top styles to match the fence. See our gate installation options for walk gates and double drive gates.

Staining and Upkeep: What Your Weekends Look Like

Both woods need the same basic care in Kansas: a stain or sealer every two to three years, a walk along the fence line each spring, and the occasional board replaced. The differences are in the timing and the look.

• When you can stain. New cedar is usually ready in two to four weeks. Pressure-treated pine that arrives wet can take longer, sometimes a couple of months. The test is simple: sprinkle water on a board. If it beads up, the wood is still too wet; if it soaks in, it is ready. Stain on wet pine does not absorb and peels.
• How it looks. Cedar has a warm, reddish-tan color and a fine grain that semi-transparent stains show off. Pine starts with a greenish or brown tint from the treatment that fades as it weathers, and most owners stain it to a cedar tone or a darker color once it has dried.
• What to use. For most Kansas fences we recommend a semi-transparent, oil-based stain. Our step-by-step fence staining guide covers prep and application, and our fence maintenance guide has a seasonal checklist.

If your weekends already belong to ball games and swim practice, hand the job off. Our fence and deck staining service handles the cleaning, prep, and application, and we will work with you on a color that suits the house.

HOA and City Rules Treat Both Woods the Same

Your city does not care whether the pickets are cedar or pine, but your HOA might. Many subdivision covenants around Wichita spell out fence material, height, style, color, and which side faces out, so read yours before you choose a wood. On the city side, the rules turn on height and placement rather than species: inside Wichita, fences up to 8 feet are exempt from a building permit; Derby requires a fence permit for new and replacement fences; and Andover asks for a permit application with a plot plan. Our Wichita fence permit guide has the details, and if you are fencing a brand-new home, start with our new construction fence guide.

Which Wood Fits Your Household?

Put it all together and the cedar vs. pine fence choice usually sorts itself out by household.

Choose cedar if…

• You plan to stay eight years or longer and want the lower cost per year of ownership.
• You want a privacy fence that stays tight, flat, and straight along the top.
• The fence faces the street or a neighbor, or your HOA is particular about appearance.
• Your run is short enough — a typical subdivision backyard — that the per-foot premium stays modest.

Choose pressure-treated pine if…

• Upfront cost is the deciding factor, or you would rather put the savings toward a wider gate or a second one.
• You are fencing a long run on a bigger lot, like the larger properties around Mulvane and Goddard, where a few dollars a foot multiplies fast.
• You expect to sell within about five years.
• You have a large dog that is hard on wood, and you are happy with board-on-board or shadowbox to hide shrinkage gaps.

A middle path worth asking about

Many cedar fences are built with cedar pickets on pressure-treated posts and rails. That puts cedar where you see and touch it, and treated wood where rot pressure is highest — in and near the ground. Ask any contractor exactly which parts of the fence are cedar and which are treated, because “cedar fence” can mean either.

Still weighing wood against vinyl? Our wood vs. vinyl comparison and vinyl fence guide cover the no-stain option, and the Wichita privacy fence guide walks through styles and heights for every material.

Questions to Ask Before You Sign a Wood Fence Quote

• What species and grade are the pickets? Western red cedar is the most common fence cedar. Ask how much pale sapwood to expect, since sapwood lacks the heartwood’s natural rot resistance.
• What are the posts, and how deep do they go? Look for ground-contact treated posts or galvanized steel, set in concrete below the frost line.
• Is the pine kiln-dried after treatment, or will it arrive wet?
• What board style is quoted, and how will it handle shrinkage? Side-by-side, board-on-board, and shadowbox behave very differently as the wood dries.
• What fasteners are used? Copper-based preservatives corrode plain steel, so treated lumber calls for hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel nails and screws.
• When can the fence be stained, and is staining in the quote?
• What does the warranty cover? Every Midwest Fence installation is backed by a 1-year warranty on workmanship and materials.

For more on choosing who builds it, see DIY fence installation vs. hiring a pro.

Cedar vs. Pine Fence FAQs for Wichita Homeowners

Is cedar or pine better for a fence in Kansas?

Cedar is the better wood and pine is the better price. Cedar resists rot naturally, shrinks about half as much as pine as it dries, and lasts roughly 20 to 25 years in Kansas with regular staining, against 10 to 15 for pressure-treated pine. Pine costs less per foot, is about twice as hard, and is the practical choice for long runs, tight budgets, or a home you expect to sell within a few years.

How much more does a cedar fence cost than pine in Wichita?

As a planning range, cedar runs about $30 to $50 per linear foot installed in the Wichita market and pressure-treated pine about $25 to $40. On a typical 150-foot backyard, that is roughly $4,500 to $7,500 for cedar and $3,750 to $6,000 for pine, so cedar adds about $750 to $1,500. Gates, height, board style, and slope move the final number, and the only accurate price comes from a free on-site estimate.

How long does a pressure-treated pine fence last in Kansas?

About 10 to 15 years when it is stained every two to three years, and closer to 7 to 10 years if it is never stained. The treatment protects pine from rot and insects but not from sun and drying, which crack and warp unprotected boards. Posts rated for ground contact and set deep in concrete are what keep a pine fence standing to the end of that range.

Why do pine fence boards shrink and leave gaps?

Much of the pressure-treated pine sold for fences is still wet from treatment when it is installed, and pine shrinks nearly twice as much as cedar as it dries. Pickets set tight side by side can open visible gaps within the first year. Board-on-board and shadowbox styles keep a pine fence private as the boards shrink, and lumber that is kiln-dried after treatment moves less.

Is pressure-treated wood safe for kids and dogs?

Residential treated lumber has not used the old arsenic-based CCA preservative since the end of 2003, and today’s products use mostly copper-based preservatives. Sensible precautions still apply: discourage dogs from chewing any fence, wash hands after handling fresh-cut treated wood, and never burn treated scraps.

How soon can you stain a new cedar or pine fence?

New cedar is usually ready in two to four weeks. Pressure-treated pine that arrives wet can take longer, sometimes a couple of months. Sprinkle water on a board: if it beads, wait; if it soaks in, the wood is ready for stain.

Get a Free Wood Fence Estimate in Wichita

Whether you are fencing a new build in Andover or Maize, replacing a tired fence in east Wichita or Derby, or fencing a bigger lot near Goddard or Mulvane, Midwest Fence builds cedar and pressure-treated pine fences in Wichita and across the metro — side-by-side, board-on-board, and shadowbox, with gates to match. We are locally owned and operated, licensed and insured, every installation is backed by a 1-year warranty on workmanship and materials, and removal and haul-away of your old fence is free.

Request your free written estimate or call us at (316) 710-5824. We will walk the line with you and put the wood, board style, height, gates, and post details in writing — and if you are torn, ask us to price both woods so you can see the real difference for your yard. See how our fence installation process works and browse finished wood fences in our gallery. We serve Wichita, Andover, Derby, Goddard, Maize, Mulvane, and more — see every community on our service areas page.